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Eating Ethnic in Cleveland
February 18, 2004 @ 6:33 am and 8:20 am on 90.3
When
it comes to the region’s economic growth, the area’s
dwindling population is often cited as one of the barriers to success.
However, there’s one group that has seen its numbers go up,
if only slightly. From 1990 to 2000, the number of foreign-born
residents in the Cleveland metropolitan area rose by almost 15,000.
Although small in number, immigrants have made an impression on
Northeast Ohio’s culinary landscape. As part of Making
Change; Reinventing our Economy, ideastream’s
Shula Neuman explores the impact immigrants have on both our economy
and culture.


Forget the stereotypes
of Chinese food: no egg-fu-young or sweet and sour anything. Instead,
think eggplant in spicy garlic sauce or honey-walnut beef. Those
are some of the specialties Annie Chiu offers at the Sun Luck Garden
in University Heights.
There are some
old standards on the menu for the less adventurous types, but Chiu
says the daily specials are what make owning her own restaurant
so much fun; which was not something she would have pictured herself
saying 30 years when she came to the U.S. to pursue a degree in
library sciences.
Annie
Chiu: I’m kind of solely responsible for the
place. So if people want to call and complain, they should talk
to me. OK.
Not that many people do complain. Chiu’s customers often become
regulars, so much so that she’ll call her devoted fan-base to
alert them when she prepares particularly popular dishes. Sun Luck
Garden’s reputation for inventive dishes and gourmet desserts
is mostly the result of word-of mouth, Chiu says. She says even though
she has good employees, there are always times when she has to roll
up her sleeves and do the work.
Annie
Chiu: I have several occasions...
I have to do from serving to busing to washing dishes and cooking.
I can laugh about it now, but when I was working, it’s not
funny. It’s very hard.
Despite
the 18-hour days, Chiu says she wouldn’t change a thing about
her life. It’s a fairly typical attitude of many immigrants
who go into business for themselves, and even more so for those
who open their own restaurant.
Laura
Taxel: The ethnic restaurants, such a fascinating
story.
Food writer Laura Taxel is author of the annual guidebook Cleveland
Ethnic Eats.
Laura
Taxel: People have a real passion
for their food. They’re very proud to be able to share their
culture as it’s expressed in the kitchen with the American
pubic. They take tremendous personal pleasure in finding people
like what they consider home cooking.
It’s
like a double-bonus for immigrant restaurateurs: they share their
culture and are their own boss. Sanda Kaufman, professor of planning
and public administration at Cleveland State University, is co-author
of a study on immigration and urban development in the Cleveland
area. She says in general, immigrants who come to the U.S. to escape
adverse conditions at home tend to be more adventurous-types in
the first place. Add to that other factors - like not knowing enough
English to work for someone else or not being qualified by American
standards to work in their trained profession - it then becomes
logical that they would go into business for themselves.
Sanda
Kaufman: I can’t tell you that I’m not
wise about it, I’m just thinking like an immigrant because
I am one. And I’m thinking what do I know how to do that other
people don’t know how to do? And that might be food from my
country or something that’s specific to my country that is
unlikely to be found here but that might be in demand.
And
no one can tell them that they’re doing it wrong. Kaufman
says studies indicate that cities with large immigrant populations
tend to have stronger economies. Although it’s impossible
to prove that immigration is the only reason for this, Kaufman says
that the entrepreneurial spirit of many foreign-born residents does
have an impact. Kaufman says Northeast Ohio could benefit from encouraging
immigrants to settle here.
Sanda
Kaufman: When an immigrant comes
to the United States they may not have heard of Cleveland and they
may not know that it’s a nice place to live and it will be
welcoming and so on. So just putting Cleveland on the immigrant’s
mental map will help. And then helping with small things that will
not require major public investment but may just require public
coordination of services.
And
it is possible to win over immigrants. Prashant Patel chose
Cleveland as his new home, even though his parents and siblings
all settled in Michigan. Patel says once he discovered the city,
the support of his community enabled him to open an Indian market
in Parma Heights and then a restaurant, called Mughal, right next
door.
Prashant
Patel: The
first thing is, our community they help us a lot. They help us
a lot like at temple and other activities. If we want to open
a business they will help us.
While the Indian
community may have helped Patel and his co-owners start out, Americans
are sustaining it: 80% of his clientele is American. He says Clevelanders
are remarkably savvy about Indian food. Aside from some of the vegetables,
he doesn’t have to significantly alter the recipes to suit
the American palate.
Prashant
Patel: They know from the books, from the Internet. Internet
makes life very easy for everybody. They know our culture better
than us, yeah.
In discussing
his plans for the future - which include opening an Indian mega-market
- Patel mentions something that also explains the important role
immigrants play in the economy. He says while he never finished
high school, his children will be educated, and he wants them to
work in the service and professional sectors. In Cleveland, Shula
Neuman, 90.3.
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